Tailor s measuring instrument



' UNK E l? TAILOR/S MEASURING INSTRUMENT.

Specicaton of Letters Patent Ne."1,556,` 'dated April 18, 1840.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be 1t known that I, WM. J. LEMMOND, of

Lancasterville, inV the district of Lancasterv and State of South Carolina, have invented a new and Improved Mode of Measuring the Different Shapes of Men Preparatory to Drafting and Cutting Garments Therefor; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making part of this specification.

The nature of my invention consists in the combination of a horizontal graduated sliding strap, having graduated vertical sliding straps upon it with tape measures attached to them with a graduated vertical strap and also the combination of a graduated horizontal strap having vertical sliding pieces with tape measures attached to them, with the vertical strap.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I will proceed to describe the instrument and it-s application.

Figure l represents the apparatus.

At pivot 1st there is a hook which is hooked on the person to be measured at the top of his back precisely over the socket` bone of the neck. No. l is a spring steel ranging up and down the center of the back l with 20 inches marked on it and an inch measure attached at A and at the lower end of this inch measure at B there is a piece` of wood attached having 5 inches marked on it. The use of this spring steel No. l is to` neck, and in the latter case causes it to stand oli' too far from the neck;-a further use of the spring steel No. l is to obtain the correct depth or bottom of the scye from socket bone at pivot 1st also the length of t-he waist and with the inch tape attached at A the length of skirt, &c., is obtained. The 5 inch piece of wood as above mentioned is to obtainthe correct measure for the spring of the skirt of the coat which being. taken correctly and applied in drafting the skirt of the coat, will prove to be lself, 4varying"and remedy`Vr two important evils in garment cutting-fthe first is that of the skirts not having enough spring which .causes them. to gape or incline to standjapartfor open-the second isthat of the skirtshaving too much spring which causes them tolap across each other. By this measure being taken expressly for that purpose, and the skirt drafted accordingly the skirt will never be on either of the abovev mentioned eXtremesbut on the contrary always giving and diminishing spring acsfrafrns raruur oFF-ron.

cording to Vnecessity (see the accompanying draft vof a dress coat skirtand explanation which makesl a part of this specification).

No. 2 is a spring steel having l2 inches marked on it each way from the center of the back 5 on No. l and is movable, it slips up or down on No. l as necessity requires `and gives the correct width of each back between the shoulders, these measures are obtained correctly by slipping straps No. 4 t0 their proper places on No. 2 to buckle around each shoulder, if necessity requires one back to be wider than the other (caused V by a deformity in the shape) showing how much it should be and also the correct width of each. Nos. 4 which' are leather straps having 13 inches marked on them, being buckled to the proper tightness around the shoulder they show the size of the same, and the difference if any; the inch tape measures attached to each of these straps at pivot 2nd are to take the length of each sleeve or arm and show the difference, if

5 on this strap No. 3 are pieces of tin or` brass and are movable ;-their use is to get the front of each scye from the center of the back at 11 on No. 1 if one shoulder is further forward than the other it will beY detected by slipping these brass or tin pieces back until they come against each shoulder, and the difference will be seen on No. 8 from center of the back at l1 to the front of each scye. The two inch measures attached to `pivot 1st are to take measure from that point down to the bottom of the lapel which gives the coat the proper length in front never dropping too low or being too short. The same straps give another important measure which is taken around in front of Y the arms down toback taking'at-the proper length of waist and is the onlymeasure thatvv will throw a coat in properlylat waist. VThe inch measures attached to Nos. f5 at pivot 3 are to take the measure from that point front of the arms up to socket bone atpivot A1st and the'samegstraps extended; onidown .to the center of the backfbetweenxthe shoul dersat 5 orNo; l Vthese measures :always give cloth to the shoulders "according-to their shape and several necessities'and ifrtherebe any difference in?Y the height ofthe same (which is often the case) it will be detected by these measures last mentioned taken from' front ofV arms up to the socket bone, center of' back &c., by `the use and applica` tion of the above instrument in drafting garments, the cutter is providedwith a certain safe and simple remedy againstferrorv no matter how inexperienced'he maybe.

g 1 'Directions Low to take measure for the spring 0f skirts 'with a correct anclgselfr naryz'ng* sil/stem of drafting the sama- Suppose the instrument Fig. lon thecustomer and all the necessary measures Vobtained eXcept the one now to be taken, which is to regulate the. spring of the skirt. Your Y- customer Vstanding erect you will lay a straight-edge (some four feet long) on his back ranging up and down the back touch- .inghis hips and shoulders there will vconsequently vbe more or less of a space between the straight-edge and the small of.

the back orY where the waist of the Vcat shouldbe-this is now what you must do.

You -must find by measurement how much.

the Astraight edge lacksV of touching the backat the proper length of the waist which 'is done simply piece of 5-inch wood that is attached at B Fig. l) from the inside or the sidel that lies next to the back on a level straight in' till you touch the back at the proper length t of the waist. Youhave now the measure ,thatfwill give and Vregulate the spring of the skirt according to what necessity requires. For instance suppose two men prefollowing rule.

'cisely the same size in every respect yet one .is very straight in the. back, and a skirt having ordinary spring will lap across each other when on this man-while the otherv man` is very hollow or sway backed land the same coat will gape Vor stand open in the skirt, whereas the measures above mentioned taken and applied in drafting the skirt will always remedy these two imporrgant: evils, being 'selfvarying throughout. `Observe the Directions for applying thermeasure'dlin drafting scz'r, (see Fig. 2.)f-If the Ineas@L ure for the spring lis `of `an inch, 'lay your square wit-h the, first on the short arm on vline A as represented Vin draft Fig. A2 and the rst one and inches on `thelong arm touching or'lying on the,V same line by Ameasuring (with the` you then have the spring required by drawing line B as represented bythe short arm of the square if thefmeasure is T1 an inch in the same wayflaying the first i; inch of the short arm on line A and the first 225 inehesofthe long `arin-on theV same line then draw` line B `which gives more springv more being required. i

If the measure is ifiot an inch :come out that witlr theshort arrnfrom lineA and in. ofthe* long arm on the same line. It the measure-'is 1 inch in the same way as above, lay the irstyinch'of your'short arm of the square on lineA and inovein the long arm of `your square till' the first 432 inches on it lies on" the same; line. Observe v`this rule strictly and everaterward add double thejdistance below with the long arm of vthe square that you-have to come out from lineA withthe'rshortyarm. For instance,` if the measure is l: inches as labove directed you will "laythefirst l; inch of 4your short arm `on lineA fand the first `5 inches of your long' arm on the saine line: If'the measure is 1.15` inches go down 6 inches on the long arm g" ifthe measure vis l inches gov down; Gi- Ainches, on the long arm; if the measureis 2 Ainches go down y 7 inches on the long arm; if the measure is 2i inches go down 7%; inches on the'l'ong arm; if the measure is 2112- inches go) down 8 inches on the long arm; if the measure is Y23; inches go down`8- inches on the long arm, &c., always remembering that let the measure be whatv `it may, taken for. the spring, you must eomeout from line A represented with the short arm of the square;` just the distance fromfline AV that your measure calls for moving the long arm Vin or out as directed see-` F ig.2. `The first draftNo. 1 of Fig. 2 isdrafted `for aman Vwhose measure taken `for the spring is 2 inches consequently follewing the rule laid down you must come back from line A that numbers the short'arin of your square as represented and `move the long arm of the square 'in till the `first `'2' inches on it rests on the same line.V You then draw line B l i by shortarm of square which is the spring required'. VThe second draft No. 2"is for an inch in the `same way observing the rule "a man whose measureffor spring is only i as above you come out from line A gan inch with thefshort arm of square and move in the; long arm till theirst `21g inches on it rests on the saine line then draw. line B by the shortv arm of the square whichis the springrequired for the coat,V t Observe that though-these men maybe precisely the same size intev'ery particular yetit willl b e seen whatl Va `n iaterial difference each `man requires for his correct spring of skirt.

`En?)Zomauz'on oftacannclfore par@ (Nos.

land 2, Fig; 3.)"-1st `Draw line A ranging with edge of clothgiving yourself plenty of cloth to turn in back skirt. 2nd. Apply] your measure as taken from socket bone down level with shoulder point on line A. 3rd. Apply to bottom of scye, length of waist skirt, &c., and dot the several places as you go down. 4th. You now draw lines C D E and F square out from line A and edge of cloth. 5th. Apply the width of back across line C and make a dot. 6th. Apply front of scye measure on line D. 7th. Draw line G square up from line D. 8th. Go up line G 6 inches and on a square from `it go out 2 inches and draw line H. 9th. We will now retire to back No. 1 again, the width of back scye may be according to fancy o-r fashion so also the width of back at top and at waist. 10th. Line B is got by a sweep which is the length from top of back down to line C. 11th. Side and shoulder seams are swept by length of waist. 12th. We will now proceed with forepart No. 2 by applying the measuse t-aken from front of shoulder up to socket bone on line I-I and make a dot. 13th.

Apply the measure (taken with the same straps over the shoulders down to the center of the back between the shoulders) on line G make a dot and draw line I. 14th. Lay your back seam on this line I as represented and make shoulder seam of forepart. 15th. Line J is drawn square out from line H and is just half way between line D and line I. 16th. The neck gorge is swept with half the stock measure commencing at the top of the shoulder point and intersecting line J. 17 th. We will now throw the coat in correctly at waist by applying the measure (taken from socket bone down in front of the arm around to back tacking) you will lay the forefinger of the right hand on the back and forepart as represented by the star thus -on line D; then with the left hand you move in the lower part of the back till it comes within the compass of the measure as above mentioned. 18th. Your back being now in its proper position as represented by the dotted back you will make your side seam K. 19th.

' Let your back lie as it is and take one half of your waist measure (and your chalk in your right hand and your left hand at back tacking as represented by dotted back) sweep L. 20th.` You now take the length of your` measure from socket bone to bottom of lapel and your chalk in your left hand holding the end of your sweep in your right hand placed at top of back at the junction of lines H and I you now sweep M where these lines L and M cross is the proper length for bottom of lapel and also the proper size of waist. 21st. To get line N you go up your back on line A (as it lieS in its dotted position) one fourth the length of waist and draw line N to intersect at the cross sweeps L and M. 22nd. Line O is swept with one fourth the waist measure commencing at lower joint of side seam and intersecting line N as represented. 23rd. Line P is drawn square up from line N as represented. 24th. To get the front of lapel measure one fourth the stockmeasure round or neck gorge make a dot measure on one half the stock measure make a dot take your collar pattern 'lay it down as represented by the dotted collar with the break ofk Explanation 0f skirt N o. 3 represented n i Fz'g. 3.-1st. Draw line A 1ginches from edge of cloth; we now suppose the measure taken to be an inch. 2nd. You then place the iirst inch of the sho-rt arm of your square on line A as represented hold the forefinger of the right hand on this making n a pivot of it; you then with the left han move in the long arm of the square till the first 2% inches on it is on line A as represented-then draw line B by the short arm of the square. 3rd. For width of skirt at top go across one fourth the waist measure for width at bottom go according to fancy or fashion; the length is got by back skirt. (See general directions.)

General directions for taking measure and draft/ng skirt N0. 3.-If your customer measures in at the waist gan inch come out that quantity fro-m line A and go down 235 inches striking the same line with the long arm of the square as before directed. If he measures of an inch go down 335 inches; if he measures 1 inch go down 4ginches and ever after add double the distance below that you have to come o-ut from the line A for a fourth add a half, for a half add an inch, &c.

Explanation of sleeve No. 4, (see Fig.

`3).-1st. Draw line A on the edge of the where you made your dot when applying*` half the scye measure across on line 7th. From elbow go down line A 6 inches and on a square from that go out .2 inches and draw line E. 8th. Line F is drawn square out from line E. 9th. Apply half of your several measures taken around the IBO :arm and hand on lines VH G and VF and get line I by your` eye. lOth. ForV under side take .off one fourth the measure across line C, this must be taken 0H" at top on line B as shown by the Vdotted line.

Y What I caim as myinventon and which; I desire to secure .A by Letters Patent con-Y sistsiain Y Y Y* 4The combination of the horizontal radu-V ated sldin strap No. 2 having gra uated Vertical sli ing straps N o.' 4 uponlt With tape measures'attached Vto them with theV graduated vertical strap B vand alsiothe combnation of the graduated horizontal strap N o.V 3 having Verticalmslidinglpeces .No. 5 35 With tape measures attached tothem with the vertical strap `B, the Whole being con-` s-tlucted and operating inthe manner and for the purpose' described. y i a WILLIAM J LEMMOND. a

Witnesses: a i a M. CLINTON, y HENRY R. PRICE. 

